This week we got to chat with professional competitive surfer and big wave charger Torrey Meister.
In this interview, we took the opportunity to ask all the questions you would want to ask a big wave surfer, such as:
- What is on your mind right before you drop in?
- Do you ever hesitate?
- Do you worry about dying?
- Do you worry about sharks?
- How did you find the courage to go back after some of your major injuries?
We met Torrey this past summer when he came by our house with our favorite Sanuk rep Adam Walker.
We didn’t know who he was at the time but we adored his quiet demeanor, and most of all, the way he treated our kids. They played magnet blocks for an hour and our three-year-old twin boys taught him how to smash things.
Later that same night we went to an event to watch a surf film that he was in, and it was a strange moment realizing this guy charging Pipeline and JAWS was the same guy that had been playing toys and talking about his family in my living room.
In this interview, our goal was to put together the pieces of a big wave surfers mentality.
How can you be a religious and humble family man but also charge 60-foot waves?
We needed to bridge the gap.
Torrey is humble, loving, one of a kind and I hope we got to all the questions you would want to ask a big wave surfer!
- Kona the dog
- Shane Dorian
- Taylor Steel
- Kelly Slater
- Big Island
- Big Wave Surfing vs Competitive Surfing
- The Banzai Pipeline
- Backdoor Pipeline
Links & Resources:
Connect with Torrey Meister
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